Mathews has built its BOND Grip System around three grip angles, and each one is its own model. The Engage sits at 12 degrees, the Contour at 14, and the Taper at 17. Mathews says the shape came out of mapping the hand placement of hundreds of archers. That's the claim I'd want to test before repeating it to anyone, because a hand-mapping study on a product page is a marketing line until you see the data behind it.
The grip is a polymer base with a textured rubber surface on the face. The page lists the system at $99.99 USD, in left- and right-hand versions, and says it's compatible with 2019 and newer Mathews hunting and target models. So check your bow's model year before you check anything else. If yours is older, that line is where you stop, and you don't need to read the rest of the spec sheet.
Let's start with the Engage, since it's the one I'd suggest to most people. At 12 degrees it stays closest to the classic Mathews feel, so the change from a standard grip is small. The page calls it a consistent hand placement for most archers. Repeatability is the thing I'd look for in any grip. If your hand lands somewhere new on every shot, you're chasing the grip instead of the arrow, and no angle fixes that.
The Contour is the middle step at 14 degrees. The page ties it most closely to torque, which is the thing most archers ask about first.
Torque is where a grip earns its keep, and it's also the easiest part to oversell. When the bow goes off, the riser wants to twist in your hand, and the spot where your palm meets the grip changes how much of that you feel. From a design standpoint, changing the angle moves that contact point, and that's the lever the Contour is built on. The page doesn't give a number for how much it cuts, and I'm not going to invent one. Whether it helps depends on your hand and your bow, and a shop fitting tells you more than any spec sheet ever will.
The Taper has the steepest angle in the set, at 17 degrees. It has a wide, flat lower face that tapers down to a narrow throat. That flat face gives your hand a clear reference every time you set it.
I'd think of the Taper as a target grip more than a hunting one. The flat face explains why target archers tend to like it. Hunters and 3D shooters don't always set their hand the same way, so the choice really depends on how you shoot and how you hold on the bow through a long day.
Here's what I'd check before buying. Start with the model year, since that decides whether the grip fits at all. Then decide the hand and the angle together, because each model is its own choice and the two don't work separately. The colors run tan, grey, green, white, and Kodiak brown, and color is the easy part of the decision. Variant availability changes, so check stock before you plan a build around one.
Nothing on the page says how the polymer base or the rubber face holds up over a full season of rain, cold, and daily handling. That's a question for a longer test than any product page can answer, and I'd rather say so than guess at it.
From a design side, one polymer base and one textured rubber surface across three angles is a sensible way to build a system. The base stays the same and only the angle changes, which keeps the comparison honest for the buyer. It also means the shape is the main thing you're paying for, not a new material. That's a read from the parts list, not from any hands-on time with the grip, and I'd keep it at that level.
Hand size matters more than the angle number on paper. If your hand is small, a steeper angle can feel like it's pushing you out of position. If your hand is large, the flat face on the Taper may give you the stable reference you're after. Neither of those is a rule, and both are worth a few ends on your own bow before you commit.
The starting question is your hand, not the catalog. Start there and the rest gets simpler. Left-handed shooters should check the variant before they order, because handedness is part of the choice here and not a footnote on the page.
Older bows are the other gap. Confirm your bow's model year before you order, because the page sets 2019 as the line and doesn't promise anything for earlier frames.
If you're coaching a student through a grip change, I'd keep it to one change at a time. Move the grip and leave the rest of the setup alone, so you can tell what actually changed. Give it a few sessions before you judge it. Shot-to-shot consistency tells you more than how the grip feels on day one, and a new shape always feels strange for a while. Strange isn't the same as wrong.
That's the part most product pages skip. It's also the part that decides whether you keep the grip or put it back in the box.
Let's be clear about what's known and what isn't. The angles, the materials, the price, and the compatibility are all on the page. The torque benefit, the durability, and the hand-mapping work are claims, and I'd treat them as claims until someone shows the numbers. That's not a knock on the product. It's just how I'd read a product page from a company that wants to sell you a grip.
I'd still call the Engage a sensible starting point for most people. The Contour makes sense if torque is the problem you're fixing. The Taper suits a target shooter who wants a clear, flat reference every time they set up.
None of that replaces holding the grip on your own bow and shooting a few ends with it. The page can't tell you that part, and neither can I from a desk.